John Batchler of Go
Triad – Restaurant review of RIM Tapas – February 14, 2008
I have admired the work of Steve Schneider at the highly rated
Marisol (5834-E High Point Road, 852-3303, www.themarisol.com) for a long time.
Last fall he opened Rim, implementing the tapas (small plates) concept, in combination
with a wine bar.
You enter through
a long hall, where you can look into the kitchen. In the dining area, one of
the most striking light fixtures I have seen establishes the restaurants color
scheme; a sunburst of aqua from the center, surrounded by gold and teal, flanked
in wine. Metal below chair rails and under the bar strikes an urban-chic tone.
The lady who occupies center stage décor on the rear wall would look
right at home on the bowsprit of a sailing ship.
I would compliment this wine list if it appeared in any restaurant, but in a
tapas setting in this price range, it is exceptional. I stopped counting at
three dozen selections by the glass. And even before I was recognized, servers
volunteered tastings for any offerings we did not know. You simply can’t
go wrong with wine here. And personnel seemed especially competent with regard
to recommended wine pairings as well as food knowledge. Menu information and
off-menu specials were recited from memory, sans notes.
My wife and I decided
to capitalize on the wine list and make our first visit a white wine night.
Thus one evening began with Flash Fried Calamari ($7.50). The first serving
evidenced perhaps a little too much emphasis on the “flash;” although
tender and flavorful, the texture of each baby squid and/or tentacle slice was
soft-mushy. A second try delivered satisfaction, as light crispness characterized
each bit. A delightful aioli sharpened taste.
Flash Fried Oysters ($8) arrived hot, tender and crisp, their moist interior
conveying the essence of their briny habitat. Seared Diver Scallops ($11) were
large enough for about four bites each, their gentle texture exuding simple,
natural flavor, enhanced with pepper, sliced grapefruit, shaved fennel and lemon.
The latter ingredients also are available as a salad ($5).
An off-menu Crab
Cake ($12) – 5 ounces, according to our waiter – produced solid
crab flavor from bountiful lumps. A peppery-hot aioli blended well with the
naturally fresh crab while providing a nice kick. A little arugula had been
scattered alongside.
We completed this
meal with a Manchego cheese plate ($6.50). Three slices had been drizzled with
olive oil and presented with toasted almonds and slices of roasted Spanish red
pepper, plus toast points. Credit a knowledgeable waiter for recommending this
with white wine. It worked beautifully.
Only a reviewer or true foodie (like me) could wax rhapsodic over green beans,
but Rim’s al dente Haricot Verts ($6) with hoisin glaze and toasted sesame
seeded affected me that way.
Fried White Anchovies
($10) provided a bit of transition, with Mumm Cuvee ($7) sparkling wine a good
match. These tiny fish had been fried crisp, yet still tender, their flavor
extended by lemon juice, roasted peppers and shaved garlic. This course reinforced
a point that had been developing in my mind: in most area restaurants, we are
comparing how one or the other chef prepares very similar main ingredients,
Rim, however, provides some items that are unique to the location.
Our other dish in this sequence was Prince Edward Island Mussels ($8); a platter
hosted a dozen fresh mussels surrounding a sliced sausage and potato hash with
toast points.
Our red wine night kicked off with Truffle Pommes Frites ($6). These turned
out to be the best French fries I have ever had – twice fried, I suspect,
their deep brown color downright seductive, oozing natural potato flavor from
within crisp texture and enhanced by truffle oil. A sharp aioli was provided
for dipping. The potatoes provided an especially opportune match for a “Kobe”
Meatball *$12) with center of melted mozzarella cheese.
We accompanied that course with Local Artisan Bread ($4.50) – from nearby
neighbor Simple Kneads – with deep –red crushed tomatoes laced with
fresh basil plus slivered garlic, as well as an iceberg Wedge Salad ($6) with
tomatoes, thick-cut bacon and blue cheese dressing. We regarded the salad as
a match for the best we encountered during the summer’s steakhouse survey.
An off-menu special, Prosciutto Croquette ($13), represented another example
of the kitchen’s creativity. An intensely crisp exterior from panko bread
crumbs enclosed diced prosciutto, with an almond-tomato puree that my wife characterized
as almost too good. Semicircle shells, lightly coated with black and white sesame
seeds, enclosed ground Pork, Cabbage and Ginger Pot stickers ($7), which gave
off a Thai-style medley of flavors, complemented by an orange chili glaze.
Tender Grilled Asparagus ($10) sent me into another swoon, a function of smoky
flavor from the grill as well as a balsamic vinegar glaze. White Beans with
Pancetta ($5) plus herbs and extra virgin olive oil matched the taste adventure
of the other vegetables.
Vegetables portions were large enough to be shared by two. Meat and fish courses
will probably be consumed by one. Ordering one course at a time is the easiest
way to parse out portions, however.
Don’t worry about anticipating anything in advance. Just keep eating until
you are satisfied. That’s the beauty of tapas.
Rim’s chef de cuisine is Greg Brown; he went to Emory University before
spending some time in the kitchen at Bert’s. The manager is Jay Steward,
a UNC Chapel Hill graduate.
Another solid performance from an elite local restaurateur!
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